I previously talked about "Lift" and "Turn" in my Blog Post on 10/25/21. As a review, if you hold your ball with a flat hand (palm facing up with the thumb at the 3:00 position and pinky at 9:00) at the stance and also on the downswing and release, the ball will have NO Turn. Turn is any motion from the arm, elbow, hand or the combination of all three working together. The reason we need some turn is to get the ball in the proper position when we release the it and to create a Hook (curve).

     Turn is affected by the different positions we can adjust our hand at the point of release, and there are several ways we can "Turn" the ball in order to achieve good action at the pins. If you think of the face of a clock as a circle which you know is 360 degrees, then if you go from a 12:00 position (the middle fingers are at the 12) to a 1:00 position, that would be a 30 degree turn which is one number on a clock face (12 numbers on the clock divided by 360 degrees=30 degrees). Turning the hand to the right (clockwise) is called a "TURNING OUT" . A "TURNING IN" is when you turn your hand counterclockwise or to the left. This hand rotating is usually done on the backswing and as your arm is coming forward, you turn your hand back to the 12:00 position strongly at the release.

    "Turning In" and "Turning Out" take practice because sometimes you may turn the hand too much and not turn it back enough. 
    Always try these new things in your practice sessions first, and then bring in to your league play. Just have fun with it !!

    
    Here are a few examples of how you can rotate your hand in different positions. Try them in your next practice session to see how these small changes can affect the way the ball will work on the lane:

1. A 90 degree Turning In-- At the stance, hold your hand with the fingers at the 12:00 position and the thumb at the 11:00 position. On the backswing, turn the hand so the thumb is at the 8:00 position (a movement of 3 numbers). You can hold it that way on the release and this is the way to throw a FULL ROLLER track as discussed in my Blog Post from 8/23/21. This type of track will deliver a strong lift because the middle finger dominates and the rotation of the ball as it hits the pins will produce good action.

​
2. A 30 Degree Turning Out--Hold your thumb at the 10:00 position (fingers at the 12:00 position) and at the top of the backswing, move your thumb to the 11:00 position (only 1 number on the clock face) and then on the downswing move your hand back to the 10:00 position. This is how to throw a SEMI ROLLER track which produces a good hook that is easily controlled.


    Try to practice this one and really focus on the FEEL because  you don't want to turn your hand too soon or it may limit your ability to lift properly.  Make sure your timing is good (having the arm and feet in sync with each other).

    There are other combinations of Turning In and Turning Out that you can try on your own. Practice LIFTING just as you begin to turn the ball, and then maybe lifting the ball a split second after you turn it to see what these little adjustments can do. Even experiment with a 60 degree Turn In and Turn Out.

    Try holding your hand at the 11:00 position on the downswing and through the release with no turn. The ball will still have a hook on it because you are releasing it with your hand on the side of the ball. Try a CRANK shot by holding your hand with the thumb at the 10:00 position at the stance, and Turning OUT to the 5:00 position and then back to the 11:00 position at the release. It will feel weird because it's unnatural to hold the hand that way, but it will give you a nice hook and lots of action at the pins.

    Again, have fun and experiment during your practice sessions. Take notes so you can review them before using them in the league once you feel comfortable and confident.


​Join me back here again next week when I'll be discussing how to deal with a "Bad Night at the Lanes".

Good Luck and High Scoring!!


​    
​

    There are several problems we can encounter while bowling, and one of them is constantly leaving a ten pin. This can be most frustrating because sometimes I get what looked like a great shot, confidently walk away expecting to have gotten all ten pins down, then turning around and seeing the ten pin staring back at me! UGH, I GOT ROBBED!!

    If you only leave an occasional 10 pin, there's not much to worry about, but if you leave them often then there is a slight error that needs correcting.

    First off, make sure you are hitting your mark before making any adjustments because it could be that you are just missing your intended target slightly. If the target is not the issue, then it may be that your ball is going too long (beginning to hook too late), or going too short (beginning to hook too early).

​    Here are a few things I have figured out over the years after leaving several 10 pins that you can try to help you NOT get ROBBED!!


1.    You need to OBSERVE your ball when it hits the pins. If the 6 pin wraps around the ten pin or goes through the 9 and 10 pins and misses the 10 pin altogether, then your ball is going too LONG, meaning your'e hitting the pocket too LIGHT. The fix is to move your feet at the stance a board or two to the right (to make the ball go more to the left at the pocket and hit it more solidly). Or, you can move back on the lane 3-5 boards which will give the ball more lane to hook on and have time to come up higher onto the headpin. Keep the same target.

2. If you are hitting HEAVY, that means that the ball is going too short, or hooking too early and coming up too high on the headpin. With this shot, the 6 pin is going in front of the 10 pin and not getting a chance to hit it and knock it down.
You will need to move a board or two to the left at the stance and keep the same target. Or you can move forward on the lane 3-5 boards. 

    You can try slowing down your walk to give the ball more chance to hook and come into the pocket more solidly, or speed up your walk if the ball is coming up too high on the headpin. Practice changing speed during your practice session because you want your timing to be good-meaning that the arm and leg movements are in sync with each other.


​Join me here again next week when I'll be discussing  "How Do You Rotate Your Hand in Bowling"? I hope to see you then.

Good Luck and High Scoring!!

​ I am posting a day early to wish all you awesome bowling moms a very Happy Mother's Day!!

  The VIPER OIL PATTERN is the second shortest of these oil patterns I'm discussing and it's about 37 feet in length.

1. This pattern yields medium to high scores.

2. Strokers-- Need to start more to the outside (right side) of the lane where there isn't as much oil, to get the ball started on it's hook toward the pocket. Play a fairly straight line and try the first arrow (5th board) as your target but be careful if you're a beginner. I was so used to playing the second arrow and when I began getting better, I started trying to get  strikes using the first arrow and it dropped off into the channel several times.

​3. Once the oil begins to break down, different angles can be played and larger adjustments may be needed to find the line into the pocket. 

​4.  Tweeners-- Should start slightly to the left of where the Stroker starts, around the 10th board.

5. Crankers-- Start a little farther left then the Tweeners, maybe on the 15th board. Starting any farther left than this will make it more difficult to get the ball to come back up into the pocket if you should miss your target to the right. The ball will hook a little earlier so you need to be able to control the ball on the back end of the lane. Use a dull ball or you can sand your ball a little before the start of the bowling session. 

6. A person who can manage different lines on the pattern as it breaks down will be able to score higher than others.

7. Since oil machines vary slightly from center to center, the Viper Oil Pattern will also vary slightly also if you bowl in different centers for tournaments. Your best bet is to use what I have mentioned here as a starting point. Focusing and observing your ball is the real key in helping you adjust properly.

Check out my ebook available on Amazon/Kindle--"Let's Rev Up Those Bowling Scores" for only $14.99.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZSMB99G/ref=sr_1_2?crid=P3PQWHFB1WYS&keywords=lets+rev+up+those+bowling+scores&qid=1652035291&sprefix=lets+rev+up+those+bowling+scores%2Caps%2C76&sr=8-2

​Join me next week when I'll be discussing "Why Do I Leave So Many 10 pins"?

​Good Luck and High Scoring!
​

​    

 
    The more a bowler stands in the center of the lane and throws a straight ball down the center part of the lane, the LESS ANGLE they will have coming into the 1-3 pocket area. It's important to be able to come into the pocket at different angles in order to be successful on the lanes when their conditions are changing, so we need to figure out wether we need to move to the right or left on the approach to determine the best angle for the ball to give us a strike.

    A "Line" is an angle or path a bowling ball takes as it travels down the lane.
​

  OUTSIDE LINE:
    If you throw a straight ball standing in the center of the lane (20th board) and hit into the 1-3 pocket area, you will most likely get only 9 pins down and leave a "5 Pin". You need to remember that the pins have weight (about 3 1/2 lbs.each) and will cause your ball to "Deflect" to the right for a right handed bowler, and to the left for the lefty's. To compensate for the balls' deflection, you need to move a board or two to the right  (left for lefty's). Moving to the Right on the lane is called  the "Outside Line" and the ball is usually rolled between the 1st and 7th board. You can use this line when there is heavy oil on the lanes. This line also gives the ball the most pocket power and most action power. If you haven't been carrying the strikes, moving to this outside line and throw directly into the pocket with some speed will be your best bet.
​

    TIGHT LINE:
    If you stand in the center of the lane (20th Board) and throw the ball over boards 10-15 on the lane, this is considered a Tight Line. This line is popular among many bowlers because the ball will roll straight until approximately 5-6 feet before the pins, then only hook 5-6 boards before coming into the pocket. Because the hook is small, it’s easier to control.​    ​

​​     "ANGLE" is determined by moving left or right on the approach. It's also determined by the amount of speed and the amount of hook on the ball. If you slow the ball down for example, the ball will hook more and come into the pocket at more of a right to left angle. If you speed up the ball, it will skid more and the angle will be more straight coming into the pocket. You can also increase or decrease angle by varying the amount of Turn and Lift you put on the ball at the release.

    
    If you are leaving a lot of 10, 8, 5, or 5-7 Pin spares, then you need to come in at more of an angle. Try moving to the right a board or two more on the approach as a starting point. Try the opposite if you are a left handed bowler.

    If you are leaving the 7, 9, 5, or 5-10 pin spares, then you need to use less angle and can move more to the left. 

    If you are leaving the 4, 4-9, or 4-7 pin spares, then you are using too much angle and need to move more to the center of the approach. For a lefty, if you are leaving  too many 6, 10, or 6-10 pin spares, then you need to move to the right or more to the center of the lane to come in at less angle.

    For a strike, the ball should be in it's ROLLING PHASE and enter into the pocket around board 17!!

    I hope you can understand this concept. Keep practicing because the more you practice, the you will improve on playing different angles, and which adjustments you need to make on changing lane conditions.


  Join me here again next week when I'll be discussing  "The Viper Oil Pattern".

​  Good Luck and High Scoring!

       As I previously mentioned, there are approximately EIGHT Professional Oil patterns that are used mostly in the PBA (Professional Bowlers Association) Tournaments that you can watch on television. Sometimes they may appear on the lanes during some of the tournaments that take place around the country as well. Oil is placed on the lanes to present a challenge to each bowler. The quicker you can figure out the oil pattern, the better your scores will be. Oil patterns affect the speed, spin, and direction of your ball as it travels down the lane. 

1. Strokers--Should begin aiming between the 2nd and 3rd arrows and play a bit straighter into the pocket area.
    Tweeners-- Aim around the 3rd arrow to start.
    Crankers-- Start the stance a bit more to the right than normal and can use the 3rd arrow as the target. As the pattern 
              wears down it will be a higher scoring pattern for those with this style. 

2. A stronger hooking ball is better to start with, one that hooks more on the back end for this pattern if you have one.

3. This will be a slightly higher scoring pattern and not as difficult as the Shark Pattern since the ball will have two feet less oil to travel on, which will allow it to be able to roll and hook into the pocket area a bit sooner.

4. You can play from different angles on the Scorpion Pattern, which allows you to have more options than with the Shark Pattern.

5.You can also try playing this pattern the way you would normally play on a house pattern but there is less room for error on this one, so try to be as accurate as possible. If you miss your mark to the outside for example (to the right), the ball may not have a chance to recover (hook back) and you may miss hitting the headpin altogether. 

6. The breakpoint (when the ball starts to hook) is between the 6th and the 10th board, similar to most House Patterns.

​
    Use the above pointers as a starting point but it's best to just observe the ball to determine what adjustments to make. Remember too, as the oil moves farther down the lane towards the pins (carry down oil), you may have a little trouble getting into the pocket. 

Check out my ebook available on Amazon/Kindle--"Let's Rev Up Those Bowling Scores" for only $14.99.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZSMB99G/ref=sr_1_2?crid=P3PQWHFB1WYS&keywords=lets+rev+up+those+bowling+scores&qid=1652035291&sprefix=lets+rev+up+those+bowling+scores%2Caps%2C76&sr=8-2

​Join me here again next week when I will be discussing "What is the best angle to bowl a strike"?


Good Luck and High Scoring!!

    This is a continuation from Blog Post Part 6 written on 12/13/21: 

​36. The more Revs you put on the bowling ball, the later the ball will break or begin to hook. More REVS also increases pin velocity which increases pin action. This is what makes the pins dance around on the lane and fall sideways which will help knock more of them down. I have seen many people with lots of revs on their ball getting a lot of these types of strikes. The ball just barely touches the head pin and they still manage to get a strike. This is still a good thing because a strike is a strike and does looks the same on the score board. It doesn't matter how you get them really, but I still rather get the nice solid pocket hit rather than a lucky or sloppy strike, after all, luck eventually runs out.


37. TIGHT LANES-- This means there's a lot of oil on the lanes.You DO NOT need to put a lot of revs om the ball when the lane conditions are like this. The ball will mostly be sliding on the oil so why waste the energy? 


38. The more a bowler moves to the center part of the lane, the more the ball will enter into the pocket (1-3 for righty's and 1-2 for lefty's) straighter and more parallel with the boards of the lane. MOST of the lane oil is to the center of the lane in the different oil patterns I have previously discussed.


​39. ANGLE is determined by the amount of HOOK and SPEED that you put on the ball. No angle means you are throwing a straight ball down the center of the lane. Moving left or right at the stance and throwing in toward the pocket area will INCREASE angle.


40. If after your first shot you are leaving a 10, 8, 5, or 5-7 pins, then you are NOT using enough angle. Move more to the right of the lane at the stance for your first ball.


41. If you are leaving the 4, 7, or 4-7 pins after your first shot, then you are coming in at TOO much angle and you will need to move a little more to the left or toward the center part of the lane on your first ball.


Join me back here next week when I'll be discussing another of the Professional Oil Patterns, "The Scorpion". I hope to see you back then.

​  As always, I wish you Good Luck and High Scoring!!





​

    
    There are approximately EIGHT Professional Oil patterns that are used mostly in the PBA (Professional Bowlers Association) Tournaments that you can watch on television. Sometimes they may appear on the lanes during big tournaments around the country as well. As I have previously said, oil is placed on the lanes to present a challenge to each bowler. The Shark oil pattern is 44 feet long down the 60 foot lane which makes it a difficult pattern to play because it doesn't give your ball much of a chance to hook until it's pretty close to the pins.

​The pattern looks like this:

1. Strokers-- Should throw between the first and second arrow. 
    Tweeners-- Should stand further left and aim around the third arrow.
    Crankers-- Should play even farther left of the Tweener and aim between the 4th and 5th arrows. 


2. If you can, I recommend either walking a bit more slowly along the approach, or holding the ball lower at the stance allowing the ball to slow down so it has more of a chance to hook into the pocket. Throwing the ball SLOWER will give it a chance to get into the rolling phase when it hits the pocket, or you may not be able to carry the strike.If you throw it to hard or fast, it will only slide on the oil and never have a chance come up into the 1-3 pocket (1-2 for lefty's).


3. If you have an aggressive ball (one that has a large hook), this would be good time for you to use it. It will be able to cut through the oil better than your regular hooking ball.


4. If you miss your target to the outside (to the right), the ball may not have a chance to hook back.


5. This pattern will become easier to deal with as you bowl more games. The oil will break down and some will be removed, then you can use a lesser aggressive ball. 


6. You can also try rolling your ball more PARALLEL to the boards on the lane.

7. Keep the breakpoint as close to the headpin as possible.


​    Worse case scenario, you can use your 10 pin spare plastic ball I mentioned to buy. It will go straight to give you more accuracy and will be easier to get into the pocket area leaving you with an 8 or 9 pin count which is better than having to deal with a possible split. A straight ball won't be affected by the oil, and then when the oil breaks down, you can use your regular hooking ball which will work better at that point.

    Remember to make sure you are keeping an eye on the ball and observing how it is working on the lane so you can   figure out what adjustments you need to make as soon as possible.

Join me here again next week when I'll be discussing "What do I need to know about in Bowling"?-Part 7"
​I hope to see you again.

​Good Luck and High Scoring!!

​ 

    Bowling Balls can be very expensive these days, especially with the economy being the way it is. The newer "Reactive Resin" balls can help you achieve higher scores because they can get through the oil better than the urethane ones, but they vary in price from $150 and up! These balls usually last anywhere from 2-5 years depending on how many games you bowl per week. They also absorb a lot of the lane oil, and over time the reaction of the ball will change and it will NOT perform the same as when it was new. If you're like me, you will want to help lengthen the life span of the ball as long as possible before you have to spend a lot of money buying a new one. There are several things you can do at home or have done at the pro shop to help lengthen the life span of your ball.

Here are some of my suggestions:

1. Try to wipe your ball after each shot or at least after every few frames to keep oil from soaking into it and to wipe off any debris that may have gotten onto the ball. You can use a regular Terry Cloth hand towel from home or you can buy a "Micro Fiber" towel online or from the local pro shop (see my blog post from 4/26/21 on Equipment you need for bowling). Both will help to keep the pores clean on the balls' surface.

​
​2. You can use a USBC (United States Bowling Congress) approved Ball Cleaner after each set of games you bowl. You can purchase a bottle of it online or at the pro shop in your bowling center. This product can be used during league play so if you prefer, you can wipe the ball off after each game (Ebonite Powerhouse Ball Cleaner, Reacta Clean are good ones that I have used and prefer).


3. Soaking the Ball:

    First I remove any tape from inside the holes in my ball and I put tape over the 3 holes in the ball (so no water will get inside of it) and I soak it in a large sink full of very hot tap water with liquid "DAWN" dish detergent. I leave it in there for about an hour. The dawn really cuts through the grease and oil does come out of the ball because you can see it floating on the surface. If you don't have a deep enough sink, then just put in half of the ball for 30 minutes and turn it over and soak the other half for 30 minutes.


4. You can also wipe your ball off after each 3 game session with some of these products you probably already have in your home-Ammonia, Windex, Orange Clean Multipurpose Cleaner, or rubbing alcohol. Don't use rubbing alcohol every time because they do say it can dry out the ball and make it more brittle over time. Also try NOT to let the cleaner get inside of the holes.


5. There is a product called "Scotch-Brite". They are pads used to scratch up the surface of the ball. Use it a little on the dampened side rather than totally dry.


6. Believe it or not, I used to bowl with a fellow who "Baked" his bowling ball in a 185 degrees oven for 30-45 minutes. I have tried it and I placed a piece of aluminum foil on the bottom of the oven to catch the oil that dripped out of the ball. Don't use this method too often because dry heat can dry out the ball and possibly cause it to crack over time


7. You can try using an Abralon Pad- This is a sandpaper with a foam backing on it which ranges from 1000-2000 grit.It can be used wet or dry on the bowling ball and will keep the bowling ball reacting the way it did when it was new for about 30 games until you will have to repeat the process. I just wipe the ball with a damp cloth, then go over the ball in a circular motion with the pad while the ball is still damp. It gives the ball a dull finish which will help the ball to hook a little later on the lane.


​8. They also sell OIL EXTRACTION Machines online or you an take it to the pro shop and have him/her re-surface the ball if you don't want to do it yourself. They put the ball on a SPINNER or Resurfacing machine and apply a 1000-2000 grit sandpaper finish to it. The process will last about one bowling season before you have to do it again, and the cost can range from approximately $10+ depending on the condition of the ball. The process cleans the pores of the bowling ball and allows more gripping power on the lane and thereby more hook.

​  

    A TOURNAMENT is an event that you will be competing in against other bowlers.  If you have been bowling for awhile now and are getting pretty good, you may feel confident enough to compete in an Amateur Bowling Tournament. There are several types out there to meet your needs. There are HANDICAP tournaments where you will be given extra pins according to your league average, and if you are a more experienced bowler, you may want to go into a SCRATCH Tournament where no handicap is given out. These tournaments are for individuals or for an entire team.

    Many bowling centers around the country hold these types of tournaments over the course of the year. They usually post notices in the center and you can also ask people in your league about them. In most of these amateur tournaments you will be bowling three games on 2 lanes like in the leagues. Below I have listed a few of these tournaments they may hold at your local center which may be held on week ends, once a month, or even more often depending on how many people have been signing up for them:

1. SCOTCH DOUBLES:
    
    This is a handicap tournament where you and a team mate or significant other can bowl together as a 2 man team. One of you bowls first and the other will pick up the spare. If the first bowler gets a strike, then the other bowler would go first in the next frame and you just keep alternating like that. The place where I bowl usually holds a fun tournament like this for Valentines Day or St. Patricks Day. You just pay the required fee and prize money will be given out for first, second, and third highest Series. If there should be a big turnout, they may give out prize money for fourth and fifth place as well. 


2. NO-TAP:
   
    This is when a nine pin count will be the same as getting a strike. So if you get nine pins down on your first ball, the automatic score keeper will give you a strike instead and the machine will knock down the one pin that was left and just re-set the pins. There is no need to pick up the spare! If you get an eight count or less on your first ball, then you will need to pick up the spare. I always did great in this tournament because I used to get robbed a lot. If you get a lot of nine pin counts on your first ball, this may be a great tournament for you to try.


3. LOCAL ASSOCIATION CHAMPIONSHIP:
  
     This is where the United Stated Bowling Congress (USBC) local associations throughout the US, host a championship tournament each season to find out who the best bowlers are in each area. This is a usually a large handicapped tournament so bowlers of all abilities are able to compete.


4. USBC WOMENS CHAMPIONSHIP/USBC OPEN CHAMPIONSHIP:
  
     Only those who are USBC members can compete in this one, but if you are in a sanctioned league and paid this fee at the beginning of your league, then you will be eligible to compete in this tournament. It is a very large event and held each season. Bowlers are placed in different divisions based on their skill level, and more difficult oil patterns will be put down on the lanes, not the usual ones you are used to from the league bowling. I'll be discussing different oil patterns in the near future, so keep a look out for them so you'll be prepared!! 


    There are many other tournaments you can sign up for around the country. Just type in "Bowling Tournaments" online and put in the state where you reside. Then you can scan around to get further details about the date, time, entry fee, and prize money, etc. 

   
    Before a tournament, make sure your ball/s and towel are clean and that you have everything you need. Practice a few days before and just do your best to stay calm, focused, and confident. If you don't do well, don't fret. As you keep competing in them you will become more and more confident and start to do a lot better. It's like anything else you do for the first time. When you are unsure, you may get a bit nervous but don't let that stop you! We need to step outside of our comfort zones once in awhile in order to grow and improve.
   
    Please try competing in one of these bowling tournaments, especially if you never have before. It's very exciting and good experience for you as you are improving.You'll meet other people with the same interest and maybe make a few friends along the way. If you're very competitive, you can rack up lots of extra cash as well. So go out and sign yourself up for something now or down the road soon! You may get hooked and win more often than you think. With this economy, who couldn't use some extra cash?


Join me back here next week when I'll be talking about "Bowling Ball Maintenance".

​Good Luck and High Scoring!!

 

     

    Because we are only Human, we can and will get DISTRACTED by many things while bowling. Being distracted takes away our focus which in turn will lead to poor execution, poor ball delivery, and poor scores! Let's say you had a bad day at work or you have something important on your mind. This can be a huge distraction and certainly will take your mind off your bowling game.

    Then there are those of us who are lucky enough to have bowlers on our team that are smokers and need to go out to have a cigarette. Then we have to wait for them to come back to bowl while the opposing team is giving us looks as if to say "Where is your other bowler, he/she is holding up the rest of us". Then you slip on your shoe covers to go and locate your team mate because you feel bad.

     There are also rude bowlers next to you on the next pair of lanes who think they should go before you even though you were already set up on the lane to bowl, or maybe a team mate or opposing team member shows up late, but just in enough time and is able to bowl the current game. Then all of us have to stop bowling to let them catch up. 

      What if you are bowling with someone who is very close to you in average and you are worried that you might not bowl up to par or that they may bowl really well and get ahead of you.

    It takes a tremendous amount of SELF-DICIPLINE to BLOCK OUT all of the distractions and it takes some time to master, especially if you are new to the game. In reality, most of us do let the little things get to us. The best possible advice I can give you is to just TRY your best to NOT let these things distract you. If you have an issue on your mind for example, the problem will still be there even after you are done bowling, so why not just try to stay focused on your three games since you are only at the center for a few hours. If you do bowl well, you may have a different perspective on the issue and may approach it more positively after the bowling is finished. 


 Also BE AWARE of things. Here are some examples:
   
    If the opposing team says their team member will be a little late, just be prepared to have your rhythm thrown off a bit but say to yourself " I am going to make sure I am counting my steps so I can keep my good rhythm up". 
     If you are already set up on the lane and someone comes up to bowl on the next lane because they are unaware of the bowling etiquette, don't get angry. Just discipline yourself to step back and set yourself up again after that person is done bowling their total frame so it won't happen again. Afterwards you can politely inform them of the etiquette and that the bowler to the right has the right of way, unless there's a person already set up to bowl.
    Let's say you have 4 or 5 consecutive strikes and the guy on the other team says loudly "Hey why don't you take a break and cool off"? This should NEVER happen, but if it does, try not to get upset. That's exactly what that guy wants.He would love it if you stopped striking. Just ignore that wise guy and just stay focused and keep that string going!!
    Perhaps you have a chatty team mate that is constantly talking about his/her job or family and you had a few bad frames.? Just walk away as if you are going to the restroom or getting a snack and sit somewhere quiet to get focused back on your game and what you may be doing wrong. 

    Remember Bowling is a 90% mind game. The less likely you are to be distracted, the better you are going to bowl! I know it's easier said than done, but keep your guard up. You are only at the lanes for a few hours a week. Try and keep the problems out of your mind for that short amount of time.The times I stayed focused and bowled really well, I noticed that the rest of my week went well too. Problems may still be there after you finished bowling well, but I'd rather have a good round of bowling and worry after I'm done, rather than worrying and having a lousy three games to deal with too, and perhaps some angry team mates for not hitting my average!


​Please join me next week when I'll be discussing "What is an amateur Bowling Tournament"?

Good Luck and High Scoring!!